Although our trip last summer wasn't our first time in Europe, we're not by any stretch of the imagination very experienced or sophisticated travelers. We just wanted to wander around and see what came up, maybe visit a couple of monuments we had heard about all our lives. We had no schedule and no reservations other than those imposed by the need to get to the airport in time for our return flight, the restrictions of our fifteen-day Eurailpasses, and a necessarily modest budget.